We LOVED our trip on the Sun. It was the 2nd cruise for DH and I, and the first for my kids (18 & 20). With the kids, the freestyle just seemed like a much better way to go, as neither of them are really into dressing up, and the ability to choose dinner times worked well. We enjoyed the food (dining rooms better than the buffet), and thought the service and the crew were great. The ship is beautiful and well maintained.
Shore excursions: Ketchikan -- booked the combo Saxman Village/Totem Bight tour through Sourdough Tours. Much cheaper than the ship excursions, and got to see both sites. Our tour guide was a native of Ketchikan and full of information.
Juneau -- Planned on doing the tram at Mt. Roberts, but it was too cloudy. Caught a city tour/Mendenhall Glacier bus from the pier. Mendenhall Glacier was great, city tour boring. Just catch one of the cheap buses that goes only to the glacier. That afternoon, we did the Tracy Arm Fjord catamaran tour (through NCL) that leaves prior to the Sun and meets back up with the ship at the Glacier. This excursion was the highlight of our trip. Saw whales, tons of seals, got much closer to the face of the glaciers (both North and South Sawyer).
Skagway -- rented a car and drove to Emerald Lake. $70 for the car rental as opposed to $400 for the train ride. If there had only been 2 of us, I probably would have done the train. The scenery is spectacular.
Wrangell -- Jeep excursion through NCL. The scenery was pretty, but I thought it was overpriced (of course, what Alaskan excursion isn't?). It definitely wasn't a 4X4 journey. While you are on an old logging road, it was smoother than some asphalt roads here in SLC. Not a lot of choice here at the moment, but they may add more tours as time goes on. The
www.wrangell.com website does list some private tours, but we weren't into helicopter/small plane rides (cost prohibitive for 4).
Let me know if you have any more questions.