We just got back from a back to back. Sailed on May 21 north and May 28 south. I liked the south better because we went thru the glacier area during the morning of the real first day of sailing. On the north bound you will be going thru it on the last day in the evening when you will either be at dinner or busy packing. This will be the only day to see the glaciers from the ship. Don't miss it. The rest of the time is nothing but trees and mountains.
Vancouver was not that bad for processing. I can't say anything about Whittier because we did not have to get off of the ship.
Don't buy any tours on board. They are cheaper and better from the booths at the docks.
Be sure to pick up the coupon books when you are in the docks. Don't waste your time going to those selling seminars on board. You will be surprised that all of those stores are the same as from the Caribbean, with the same people. The stores pay a promotional fee to the ship. This is also printed on those maps that they hand out.
Take binoculars and fit in with the rest of the crowd that sits at the window all day looking for a whale, bear, etc
We had excellent weather, in the 50's and no rain both weeks. Hardly anyone used the pool, they were too busy looking for whales etc.
The best way to see any wild life is to go on a tour or to the zoo. Don't waste you time on ship looking for it. Enjoy the cruising part and do the shows and activities.
Formal night is basically a joke. Do it only if you want but there were passengers wearing sweats. Save the room for other stuff.
Everyone that I talked to thought that the cruise lacked enthusiasm and excitement. Don't expect this to be a party or Caribbean cruise.